When it comes to fine jewellery, one of the most popular and desired metals is the white gold. Often mistaken for a precious metal in its own right, white gold is actually an alloy carefully formulated to offer luminous aesthetics and strength ideal for high-end pieces. This post will help you gain an in-depth understanding of what exactly white gold is, how it is composed, and why it is so highly valued in contemporary jewellery.
What is white gold?
White gold is a metal alloy which is not found in nature in its pure state. In its essence, it is yellow gold combined with white metals, such as palladium or silver, in order to modify its colour, physical properties and wear behaviour. This type of gold is widely used in jewellery, especially for wedding rings, engagement rings, earrings and pendants, because of its sophisticated appearance and durability.
White gold composition: the key elements
1. Yellow gold as the main base
The starting point for white gold is the yellow gold, which provides the noble and valuable metal content of the alloy. Depending on the desired purity, different percentages of gold are used:
18 carat white gold75% of pure gold.
14 carat white gold58.3% of pure gold.
The rest of the composition is completed with other white metals that modify the colour and strength of the material.
2. Added white metals
PalladiumIt has become the white metal of choice today because of its natural greyish-white colour, its resistance to oxidation and its hypoallergenic nature. Although more expensive, it brings a higher quality to the alloy.
NickelIt was traditionally the most widely used metal to produce white gold because of its hardness and low cost. However, it is no longer used due to its allergic potential, as it can cause skin reactions in sensitive people.
SilverAlthough less common as the sole bleaching component, silver is used as part of the complementary metals set for its ability to lighten the tone of gold.
Rhodium plating: the finishing touch
Once the white gold alloy has been alloyed, most pieces of jewellery are given an rhodium coating, a platinum-group metal that is applied by electroplating. This plating is essential to give white gold its recognisable bright white appearance and to increase its surface strength.
Functions of rhodium:
Improve colourThe silvery-white hue we associate with white gold is largely due to this layer.
Increasing brightnessRhodium has a highly reflective finish, which gives a very lustrous appearance.
Protecting the surfaceAs a hard metal, rhodium acts as a barrier to scratches, oxidation and fading.
It is important to note that this coating is not permanent. Over time, especially on frequently used jewellery such as rings, it can wear away, exposing the underlying alloy. It is therefore advisable to have a new rhodium plating every few years to maintain the original shine of the piece.
Variability in composition
Not all white gold jewellery has exactly the same mix of metals. The composition may vary depending on the manufacturer and the type of jewellery.. For example, some fine jewellery brands eliminate nickel altogether to ensure a hypoallergenic experience, while others may adjust the proportion of palladium or silver depending on the desired colour and hardness.
This variability means that white gold can have subtle differences in tone between pieces from different sources. Some will be greyer, some whiter, and some with a slight warm tinge, depending on the exact proportion of each metal.
Advantages of white gold
Modern eleganceIts neutral and luminous tone makes it ideal for contemporary and minimalist designs.
Perfect complement to diamondsWhite gold: Unlike yellow gold, white gold brings out the brilliance of white gemstones without changing their perceived colour.
Versatility of useIt goes perfectly with any skin tone and with other jewellery, be it gold, platinum or steel.
Considerations when acquiring white gold
Despite its many virtues, white gold requires some care:
Periodic review of rhodiumOn pieces such as rings or bracelets, where wear is higher, it may be necessary to re-apply the rhodium plating every 1 to 2 years.
Avoid abrasive productsWhen cleaning white gold jewellery, it is preferable to use soft cloths and specific solutions for precious metals.
